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Post by RealPitBull on Oct 9, 2008 12:43:31 GMT -5
By Mary Harwelik
Zen 4 Dogs
“To get what you want, you must give up what you want.”
The premise behind Zen 4 Dogs is that self control gets good things to happen. Your dog must show self-restraint in order to get things he wants, like food, fun, and attention. This is an easy but extremely valuable concept to teach your dog.
Practice 1:
Hold a very yummy treat (or other valued goodie) in your hand, out to the side – make sure your dog knows you are holding something exciting. Say nothing! If your You will reward your dog by looking at/towards your face by clicking and giving the treat. Initially, you may have to reward only a slight flicker of eye contact. Gradually shape the dog towards extended periods of eye contact when you whip out something he really loves (either food or a toy).
Practice 2:
Get in the habit of asking your dog to SIT before giving him ANYthing – this includes attention, his food bowl, freedom (i.e. before you take a leash off), before you snap a leash on for a walk, before your dog steps out the door, etc. Your dog must show restraint with the sit in order to get the goodies of the world to come his way.
Start with a simple scenario – with clicker and treats, dog on leash, show your dog treats in your hand. You will be click n treating lots of sits, in many environments. Get your dog to sit by luring, moving towards him, or better yet capturing the behavior (dog does it on his own, you CT).
Now begin looking for your dog to sit in everyday scenarios – before mealtimes, for instance, or before you give him some attention he’s craving. The goal is to have the dog offer the behavior on his own, without being cued. Wait for it to happen, then give your dog what he is ‘asking’ for by sitting.
Look for your dog to sit before you allow him to get attention from another person or say hello to a canine friend.
Keep this theme going – use your clicker and treats whenever possible or else use your verbal release word, but make sure to incorporate this practice into everyday life. What your dog wants in any given situation becomes his reward for practicing self control with a sit.
Watch
1) Say your dog's name; CT when he looks at you.
2) Hold treat out to the side like you did with Zen4Dogs – CT eye contact.
3) Bring your food lure up to your chin, CT when dog looks at your face/eyes.
4) Use your food lure (bring it up to your chin), and when your dog’s eyes reach yours, say WATCH, CT.
5) Gradually fade the lure (chin, throat, chest, stomach, hip, then side).
6) Practice in different environments (you may need to backtrack at each new location).
7) Gradually build duration (start at step 2 when you begin to build duration).
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Post by RealPitBull on Oct 9, 2008 12:44:28 GMT -5
By Mary Harwelik
Leave It
NOTE: Set your dog up for success! Be ready to quickly grab or step on the Leave It Item so your dog cannot get it! End the session on a good note and the final reward should be the LII – click, pick UP the item, and give it to your dog; never allow your dog to pick up the item off the floor.
1) Grab a yummy biscuit, or other sort of food treat – this is your Leave It item (LII). Have a pile of small, pea-sized super goodies off to the side.
2) With your dog standing by, take the LII and place it under your foot. Let your dog do what he wants, but NOT get the treat. As soon as you see some sort of behavior that equals ‘backing off’, CT from the pile that is off to the side. You should be shaping towards eye contact and sitting (default behaviors).
3) Once your dog is predictably offering default behaviors, start placing the biscuit next to your foot. Then dropping it by your foot from various heights (start low and work to high). CT each repetition when your dog backs off and offers default behaviors. Repeat this process over and over, in various settings.
4) Try tossing the LII a slight distance away. CT when your dog offers default behaviors. After a few successful reps, begin to cue Leave It as you toss. Toss in different directions, initially away from then towards your dog.
5) Practice in a variety of locations.
6) Gradually increase value of the LII – use different types of LIIs, both food and non-food.
7) Set up different training scenarios. Leave items on the floor when your dog isn’t looking on, walk him into the room and cue LEAVE IT. Practice indoors and out. Use the Leave It for anything you want your dog not to touch.
8) Be sure to set your dog up to succeed. ONLY cue LEAVE IT when you know your dog won’t touch/get the item!
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Post by RealPitBull on Oct 9, 2008 12:45:00 GMT -5
By Mary Harwelik
Go to Your Place
1) Choose your training mat - preferably a square/rectangle piece of weather-resistant material that is washable.
2) Place the matt on the floor - dog on leash or loose in a small room. When the dog approaches, sniffs or steps on mat, CT (toss the treat on the mat). Encourage your dog quietly to get off the mat, and repeat again. Pick up mat after each training session initially.
3) Gradually increase your criteria, until your dog willingly approaches the mat, stands on it with all four paws, and waits for a CT as soon as you take it out and place it on the floor.
4) Now begin to ask for a sit and then a down once your dog is on the mat - click treat.
5) When you can predict your dog will walk over to the mat, begin to cue him as he walks over to it, "Go to place!" - once he gets there, ask for a down.
6) Now, when you take the mat out, cue your dog before he moves towards it, and wait to see if he walks over to it and lies down. CT.
7) Gradually build duration.
8) Once you cue Go To Place, and your dog lies down, offer him a stuffed Kong or other goody (click and hand a Kong or bone, etc) - all good things should happen on the mat.
9) Begin to move the mat around the house, in different locations.
10) Take the mat on the road! (Remember, when you add distraction, you may have to decrease your demands and repeat a few steps.)
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Post by pistis on Oct 15, 2008 22:04:42 GMT -5
I have a question- Lola is amzingly smart, the second she knows you have something she wants she automatically sits and/ or is going through every trick she knows waiting to see which one will get her the treat or toy. My question is she does it for the treat and moves on with her life. If shes out in the yard/ outside, or maybe she knows you have nothing fo (and by "fo" i mean for) her she doesnt always want to do what you say. I don't want her to be treat dependent the rest of her life, I want her to want to do what shes told. She will for treats but even if its affection she wont come. How do I get her to listen to me- not treats- shes smart, she knows if she wants to come to you or not- no treat, no come :/ any suggestions?
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Post by RealPitBull on Oct 16, 2008 7:12:16 GMT -5
Training requires a systematic step by step process. The biggest mistake owners make is that they reward after every repetition, in a quiet setting, then without food in a different/more distracting setting, they expect the dog to obey.
Couple things:
1) Dogs don't generalize. Just because a dog sits or does a nice recall indoors, doesn't mean they will do it outdoors or even in a different building.
2) Initially, rewarding every repetition is important. But as time goes on, reward only the best repetitions (maybe best 8 out of 10).
3) Once a dog is reliably performing a behavior, and you have been rewarding the best out of a set number of repetitions, begin to practice rewarding random correct performances with food, praise, toys, OR play (this begins the process of weaning off strict reliance on food).
4) If your dog is doing well in one location, when you switch locations, don't be surprised if your dog begins to slip up - you will probably have to go back to rewarding every repetition with food, and so on, for a short time.
5) Help your dog generalize behaviors quicker by mixing up the training locations from the very beginning. For instance, in the early stages of training, pick a bunch of different LOW-level distraction environments to work in. When you dog is performing reliably for, food, as WELL as toys, praise, etc., then begin to work in slightly more distracting environments, and so on.
6) Food is ALWAYS going to be your most powerful reinforcer (well, for most dogs!) Your dog will always require a paycheck - and that should include food, play, toys, etc, although you should eventually be randomly rewarding (rewarding only the best responses) .
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Post by pitunia on Aug 8, 2009 16:22:17 GMT -5
Why is clicking better than verbal sound? What do you do when your clicker is not available?
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Post by RealPitBull on Aug 12, 2009 11:58:05 GMT -5
Why is clicking better than verbal sound? What do you do when your clicker is not available? Clicking is better because it is unambiguous. A click is a unique sound that ALWAYS means the same thing: good job, reinforcement's on the way. Many people use a verbal marker instead - which is fine. IMO, it is just not as effective. Karen Pryor talks about the click's effect on the dog's brain and that research may show it helps the dog learn faster than human verbal communication. As far as what to do if you don't have a clicker with you, I almost always have one on me.  In fact, one is even on a my key chain. Once a dog is trained to a specific behavior or in general, you can swap out the click for a verbal marker word (which is what I do). My dog is conditioned to the click, but also the word Yes. All new stuff is taught with the clicker, and if I am taking him out to an environment that may be challenging to him, I bring the clicker with me. If I don't have a clicker, I can use the word 'yes' as a marker. Clicker training is a broad way of communicating with your dog, marking behavior, and following with a reward. It takes a little getting used to but eventually it becomes second nature. |
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Post by pitunia on Aug 20, 2009 15:56:04 GMT -5
That makes sense. I have a new marketing idea for PBRA.....clicker earrings! The Vick doll being peed on by Leo seemed to have some logistic issues. :-)
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Post by RealPitBull on Aug 21, 2009 11:05:52 GMT -5
That makes sense. I have a new marketing idea for PBRA.....clicker earrings! The Vick doll being peed on by Leo seemed to have some logistic issues. :-) HAHAH I could totally see myself wearing clicker earrings.....YES, I am that much of a dog trainer nerd! |
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Post by rhysmom on Mar 1, 2010 20:21:44 GMT -5
Hi, I'm wanting to start clicker training with my APBT and was wandering what a good treat would be to use? It seems like all the treats at the store are big bone-shaped treats or something, the only smaller easy-to-eat treats are SO expensive. Any recommendations?
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Post by emilys on Mar 1, 2010 20:23:41 GMT -5
Hi, I'm wanting to start clicker training with my APBT and was wandering what a good treat would be to use? It seems like all the treats at the store are big bone-shaped treats or something, the only smaller easy-to-eat treats are SO expensive. Any recommendations? tiny little pieces of string cheese is one possibility. Since c/t involves LOTS of treats, the key is to use teeny tiny litttle pieces. Dogs can count.. they know that 10 little pieces is better than 1 bit piece. |
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Post by michele5611 on Mar 1, 2010 20:26:02 GMT -5
I have used hot dogs or chicken breasts. Keep in mind it just needs to be a tiny tiny piece esp. in the beginning as you will click and treat in rapid succession.
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Post by rhysmom on Mar 1, 2010 20:29:11 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I keep forgetting about non-commercial dog treats! Hmm, I might be able to cut up some baby carrots, he LOVES carrots. Good suggestions, I'll have to take a trip over to the grocery store and get a few things and see what he might like best.
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Post by emilys on Mar 2, 2010 12:08:55 GMT -5
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Post by loverocksalot on Mar 2, 2010 21:09:17 GMT -5
If you want a commercial treat Zukes are great small soft bites. Look for the soft because they do have a line of small crunchy ones. The small soft bites can be broken to smaller pieces. Rocky also likes cat treats like pounce. I have used those too.
Mary I too have the issue where ROcky will not do perform some tasks without being sure he is going to get paid. He does nothing for free. I suppose teaching him NILIF has bitten me in the arse. LOL. But seriously he will not do most tricks unless I am armed with treats. He will not play fetch or frisbee unless he knows I have a treat.
And I agree the clicker is much more effective than me saying yes.
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Post by drewsthepits on Dec 7, 2011 18:42:03 GMT -5
Clicker training really helped me have some break-through moments with my first, Dominoe. I taught him many commands with the clicker and I swear by it. I use 'yes' as my mark when I have no clicker but I always tried to keep at least one in every different spot.
I loved doing 'leave it' with the clicker, the pups caught on very fast. It was one of the more enjoyable exercises we did.
Great stuff here Mary you really have a knack for spinning the training into a system that others can easily follow. Awesome.
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Post by RealPitBull on Dec 8, 2011 9:31:37 GMT -5
Clicker training really helped me have some break-through moments with my first, Dominoe. I taught him many commands with the clicker and I swear by it. I use 'yes' as my mark when I have no clicker but I always tried to keep at least one in every different spot. I loved doing 'leave it' with the clicker, the pups caught on very fast. It was one of the more enjoyable exercises we did. Great stuff here Mary you really have a knack for spinning the training into a system that others can easily follow. Awesome. Thank you, Drew!  I appreciate the feedback. |
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In fact, one is even on a my key chain. Once a dog is trained to a specific behavior or in general, you can swap out the click for a verbal marker word (which is what I do). My dog is conditioned to the click, but also the word Yes. All new stuff is taught with the clicker, and if I am taking him out to an environment that may be challenging to him, I bring the clicker with me. If I don't have a clicker, I can use the word 'yes' as a marker.
I appreciate the feedback. 
I look forward to learning much here