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Post by maryellen on Sept 11, 2013 21:13:59 GMT -5
Stupid iphone. I meant collars lol. Another collar maker i use is www.trendyhounds.com they are affordable and i have their martingales too. If you want a great leash www.ellaslead.com she makes a great double leash called sams backup lead that i have and have given to people who need double leash protection |
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Post by RealPitBull on Sept 12, 2013 7:14:38 GMT -5
nothing against Collarmania, but if you want something plain but effective, these folks make a nylon martingale with a buckle.http://www.schaferkennel.com/D17.html#D17 or with a chain: www.schaferkennel.com/Chain-Martingale-Collar2.html#D27I've always had a problem with fitting martingales because they have to be so big to fit over our blockhead's ears that they end up being too loose around the neck. I LOVE the Schafer Kennel buckle martingales. They are my go-to martingales for my own dogs. I also use and recommend Premier. |
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Post by moonbiscuit on Sept 12, 2013 15:31:37 GMT -5
About those harnesses, can someone explain how it would be beneficial? We have a nicely padded harness that's only used to attach to the seat belt in the car, and she pulls the most on a harness as if it's so much easier for her to get leverage with it. Thanks  |
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Post by michele5611 on Sept 12, 2013 15:35:56 GMT -5
Sensation harnesses are front clip as opposed to the back clip harnesses.
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Post by moonbiscuit on Sept 12, 2013 20:45:49 GMT -5
And that keeps them from being able to pull a lot? What would happen if she tried to lunge in one?
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Post by RealPitBull on Sept 13, 2013 7:09:27 GMT -5
Front connect harnesses like the Sensation are specifically made to help control dogs who pull. I use them on strong, highly aggressive dogs (in combo with the martingale collar, which is for added protection and to keep the front connect harness in place with the clip at the front of the dog instead of swiveling to the side which the harness can do when it is not fitted properly).
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Post by megan on Sept 13, 2013 9:44:52 GMT -5
I describe the front clip as a sort of "power steering" for the dog. If they pull or lunge forward, it sort of helps turn them around. It's not a "fix all," meaning you have to stop when they pull and wait until they stop pulling before you start again to help them understand that pulling = stopping and loose leash = walking forward, but the front clip helps re-direct them back towards you instead of putting pressure on the front of their chest and legs and shoulders like the back-clip harnesses do (which is what encourages pulling).
And I also do what Mary mentions, I have a martingale collar and I clip the leash to the collar AND the front ring of the harness at the same time to help prevent anyone from escaping.
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Post by michele5611 on Sept 13, 2013 9:54:23 GMT -5
Me too...clip the leash to the martingale to the harness.
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Post by michele5611 on Sept 13, 2013 9:54:39 GMT -5
LOL power steering!
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Post by moonbiscuit on Sept 13, 2013 11:55:36 GMT -5
So I've been reading about BAT; when she sees another dog on a walk, I should click, then we walk away, then she gets a treat. The only thing is, it's very difficult to get her to turn around. Even if she's below her threshold, she simply doesn't want to walk in another direction. She does this all the time, even if there isn't another dog. Do I just need to start working with basic walking manners before starting BAT? She really does control the walks more than I'd like. She will sniff to no end and try very hard to get to a smell that isn't along our walking path. If I want to turn around, she will bear down and flat out refuse to move. There are some streets even that we've never been down because she refuses to go down them and obviously I can't drag her (because I would literally have to drag her). So do you guys think it's best to simply work very diligently on leash walking and then start BAT? Any suggestions about how to do BAT set ups if I don't know anyone else with a dog who would be a good, calm decoy? There are also no trainers even within an hour of me that use positive reinforcement or know about BAT. I've previously asked several if they would be willing to learn about and do positive training with us and none of them agreed to. Also, suggestions on how to teach her leash manners would be appreciated. Thanks everyone.
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Post by emilys on Sept 13, 2013 13:41:14 GMT -5
So I've been reading about BAT; when she sees another dog on a walk, I should click, then we walk away, then she gets a treat. The only thing is, it's very difficult to get her to turn around. Even if she's below her threshold, she simply doesn't want to walk in another direction. She does this all the time, even if there isn't another dog. Do I just need to start working with basic walking manners before starting BAT? She really does control the walks more than I'd like. She will sniff to no end and try very hard to get to a smell that isn't along our walking path. If I want to turn around, she will bear down and flat out refuse to move. There are some streets even that we've never been down because she refuses to go down them and obviously I can't drag her (because I would literally have to drag her). So do you guys think it's best to simply work very diligently on leash walking and then start BAT? Any suggestions about how to do BAT set ups if I don't know anyone else with a dog who would be a good, calm decoy? There are also no trainers even within an hour of me that use positive reinforcement or know about BAT. I've previously asked several if they would be willing to learn about and do positive training with us and none of them agreed to. Also, suggestions on how to teach her leash manners would be appreciated. Thanks everyone. So what I read is that you have to be more patient than your dog is strong willed. Try going back to the beginning on loose leash walking. You have to STOP each time your dog pulls. And wait. And wait. And wait. EVENTUALLY, your dog WILL look back at you or take a half step back... that's the moment you have to catch and reward (it sounds like the reward would be forward motion... and ultimately, you can use a "go sniff" command to give her permission to do what she wants). Your first couple of weeks of walks won't go very far! Remember, dogs do what works for them. When she learns that pulling DOESNT work, she will finally stop pulling. Suzanne Clothier said in the workshop I attended: "why do dogs pull on leash? Because we let them; because it's ultimately not that important to us. Why do most healthy dogs NOT poop in the house? Because we DONT let them.. it's important to us to train them not to." So you have to make loose leash walking as important to you as not pooping in the house.  |
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Post by RealPitBull on Sept 16, 2013 8:12:46 GMT -5
For the turning around thing, work on getting her to turn around when you turn separately from BAT training, and just practice a lot so you can incorporate it into your BAT work.
When no other distractions are around, walk in a straight line, then stop and wait for her to look back/put slack in the leash or make any sort of move back towards you. Click/treat but treat her either using the food to lure her around (making a U-turn) or try throwing the food in the opposite direction (again, causing her to do a U-turn) and then excitedly/happily (use your voice and lots of praise) move off in the opposite direction. Just get her used to following you, stopping/checking in when you stop, then following the lead of your body. Her cue to turn with you should be your movement in the opposite direction.
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I look forward to learning much here