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Post by sugar on Apr 18, 2010 19:08:11 GMT -5
I feel like I am doing something wrong but can't figure out what. I tried walking Chubby in the Easy Walker harness, but he pulled so darn much (felt like if he was wearing a regular body harness with the amount of pulling).
I thought these type of harnesses were supposed to discourage excessive pulling?
We went on a long walk with my cousin and at one point some kid had left a blue hand-ball on the ground and Chubs got a hold of it (it had been in tallish grass so I didn't see it before hand). It took about 8 minutes before I could get it out (not very good PR, not a very happy camper!)
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Post by loverocksalot on Apr 18, 2010 21:16:07 GMT -5
I dont think they discourage excessive pulling. For me it just takes the power out of the pull when Rocky decides he wants to go full force to sniff or pee. What do you usually walk him with?
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Post by sugar on Apr 19, 2010 8:08:53 GMT -5
When i first got him, I walked him with a martingale and it was 50-50 (half time walking fine, other half pulling and practically choking himself). Then I used the Gentle Leader, which he walks well on except when he sees a toy in someone's yard or something else he really wants then he pulls so hard it looks like his eyes are going to pop out (plus he claws so much at his face he was giving himself cuts sometimes). Now i got the Easy Walk harness and he pulls as much as if he were in a regular harness.
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Post by loverocksalot on Apr 19, 2010 19:38:27 GMT -5
hmm he should not be. I like the sensation better. But the harness will not stop him from pulling. Try using food to keep him more focused on you.
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Post by sugar on Apr 20, 2010 8:10:41 GMT -5
What exactly should I do with food? I used to try to give him a tiny treat if he was walking well, but then it just became him walking sideways and trying to jump me for food (like a little furry mugger!)
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Post by RealPitBull on Apr 20, 2010 8:26:19 GMT -5
Make sure the EW is tight enough, first off. Then clip the leash to his collar AND the front of the harness (the collar should be snug, as well). Some tips...and I do use/recommend the clicker for this because it speeds up the process BIG time, but intially you have got to be patient. *Keep him on one side of you. Hold the leash in two hands. One hand holds the handle, and some excess leash, the other hand, closest to the dog, holds the middle part of the leash. Leash should always be BETWEEN YOU AND THE DOG. This is the position you should stay in. If he tries to swerve around, you'll have to readjust yourself and start over. The repetition and consistency is what works. *Stop walking when he pulls. Just wait; if he glances back at you, the leash loosens up, etc, click and treat and move on. *If you stop and have to wait more than 10 or 20 seconds, do an about-turn and move briskly in the opposite direction. *Randomly stop, wait for slack in the leash, click/treat. *Use objects in the distance as a reward. For instance, set something out that you know he'd want to get to, but do NOT let him get to it until he walks the entire distance on a slack lead. Start easy, with a short distance (maybe 10 feet) and something he likes but won't go nuts over (don't use a basketball, for instance,  ) Start walking and if he pulls, stop, turn around, and start again. Repeat until you can walk the whole ten feet without him pulling. His reward is the item. |
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Post by loverocksalot on Apr 20, 2010 9:04:00 GMT -5
Yes what mary says. But before I did clicker I tought Rocky not to pull by holding a thing of string cheese in my hand with just enough sticking out and teaching him to look at me by holding the cheese up toward my eyes. Im ok with sidways walking but no jumping up for treat. Give em treat for looking at you then incorporate into walking. after a while just holding hand in a fist is enough. If he pulls I stop walking and treat if he looks at you etc. like mary said but just with out a clicker. But the clicker sure works much better.
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Post by RealPitBull on Apr 20, 2010 9:09:06 GMT -5
Another trick you can try is, when he's walking nicely by your side, to click/treat and drop the food by your foot as you are walking along. Teaches the dog that it's a really good idea to stay by your side.
The halters, the front-connect harnesses, etc are all tools that need to be used properly and in conjunction with training. In and of themselves they can be a little helpful at best, and useless at worst.
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Post by sugar on Apr 20, 2010 9:15:10 GMT -5
The reason I mostly got the Easy Walk harness was because of that weird pain that he was in about two weeks ago (random crying, couldn't figure out where it was originating and he was on prednisone for). So I figured I didn't want him hurting himself if he was pulling a lot on his martingale. Thx, I'll try the food dropping trick.
Only reason I don't want him walking sideways is that more poeple are willing to come up and pet him if he looks like he's "under control".
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Post by loverocksalot on Apr 20, 2010 16:16:36 GMT -5
Yeah but if you get get him to focus on you sideways or straight you might be able to combat his toy obsession as well.
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Post by loverocksalot on Apr 20, 2010 16:18:27 GMT -5
Wait want to make sure I understood. Do you want for people to pet him. If yes thats great but during training sessions I could give two craps if people want to pet him or not. Work on it where there are less people interupting then bring it out into the public.
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Post by sugar on Apr 21, 2010 8:30:54 GMT -5
If we are training then no petting (I just tell people he is getting over an ear ache so he doesn't want to be petted. People don't seem to get it when I tell them he is in training)
Normally, the first 2/3 of walk is training and if he was mostly behaving himself then the last 1/3 he gets to meet people, sniff more stuff.
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) Start walking and if he pulls, stop, turn around, and start again. Repeat until you can walk the whole ten feet without him pulling. His reward is the item. 
I look forward to learning much here